The fashion industry is – after the energy sector – the most polluting industry and is responsible for 10% of the CO2 emissions. Aside from that, the production of clothing for one household costs a thousand bathtubs of water, and the working conditions in low wage countries are abominable. Preservation, good working conditions, recycling, reuse, and upcycling are therefore trends in the fashion industry.
Aside from that, the material innovation of work clothes and sport items is growing through application of smart materials, adding functions such as anti-transparency, medication, anti-radiation, odourless, self-cleaning, fireproof, or shape memory. E-textiles are getting better, because the development is taking place within the fibres. 3D printing is taking off in making accessories, shoes, and even complete outfits. Coatings and prints are not only aesthetic, but also functional, adding waterproofness, fireproofness, or even the ability to generate energy, changing colour or texture, the use of communication, or adapting insulation.
RETROSPECT MATERIAL XPERIENCE 2018
Our fashion & workwear-ambassador
Design and Research in Fashion Technology at by-wire.net
Marina Toeters operates on the cutting edge of fashion technology and fashion design. Through her website, by-wire.net, she stimulates collaboration between the fashion industry and technicians for a relevant fashion system and supportive garments for everyday use.
She advises, amongst other things, Philips Research and the European Space Agency on product development. As a teacher, coach and researcher, she works for the fashion department at the Utrecht school of Arts, textile department at Saxion University for applied science and industrial design faculty in the Eindhoven University of Technology.
Her goal is to make fashion innovative, by incorporating wearable technology, new materials, and innovative production methods in our current fashion system.
Several large exhibition pieces – often never shown to the public before – were exhibited during the trade fair, showing the visitor a glimpse of the future. What was shown?
Print in Motion
These prints, developed by Anouk van de Sande, have an extra dimension. While they look futuristic and digital, they are in fact analogue, consisting of various layers of stretching and transparent fabrics. The prints create an optical illusion by following the movements of the body. The effects are almost theatrical and can make you dizzy.
Designer and researcher Kristi Kuusk designs sustainable smart textiles. These textiles have integrated functions that respond to, for instance, touch. By integrating sensors, the articles of clothing can give the wearer a massage or light up.
MycoTEX is fabric made from mycelium, or the roots of mushrooms. This material is incredibly versatile, but was only used for solid materials, until now. Textile designer Aniela Hoitink created a flexible version that made steps such as weaving and sewing obsolete.
Material Xperience is known for its high-profile speaker programme, which includes renowned (inter)national architects, scientists, designers and other experts.
Wednesday afternoon 14 March the speaker programme “The Future of Fashion & Workwear“ took place in the Material Xperience theatre. Speakers were Marina Toeters (by-wire.net), Ellen Mensink (Loopalive), and Jef Montes, amongst others.
visit the programme page for more information
Materials from the independent Materia collection
During this three-day event, Materia showed the newest materials from its independent collection, which were scouted during the year before the exhibition. A small selection of materials:
Piñatex is a natural textile made from pineapple leaf fibre. The leaves are a by-product of the pineapple harvest, so no extra land, water, fertiliser or pesticides are required to produce the raw material. The pineapple leaves are gathered, decorticated to remove the fibre and processed into a nonwoven textile that is an alternative to leather.
Wood textile (WOO371)
This wood textile consists of a combination of wood veneer and textile. Thanks to the geometric surface finishing of the wood, it becomes flexible, more or less so depending on the size of the shapes.