The textile sector is evolving in many different sectors: the clothing industry, interior design, and technical applications. A variety of materials is used: from wood to bamboo, from glass to ceramics, from natural stone to plastics, and even concrete. The source of these innovations is once again circularity.
Textile is very versatile. In the material, in the fibre, in the thread, and in the many processing techniques, a lot of properties can be added to make better breathing sports clothing, acoustic smell-absorbing curtains, reflecting UV-resistant solar screens, and beautiful luxurious fashion creations. There are also more fabrics that are interactive due to smart materials, have anti-radiation effects, filter toxic substances, have anti-bacterial effects or humidity regulating properties. E-textiles are improving because the innovation takes place inside the fibre itself. 3D printing is also on the rise when it comes to making accessories, shoes and even complete outfits. The recycling of textiles is limited to mostly downcycling right now. The fibres are used as nonwovens in insulation or composite materials, but more and more examples of upcycling occur nowadays. ‘Vegan’ leather, made of natural plant-based materials, is very popular as well. Innovations in the textile sector are on the rise and will contribute to making the fashion industry more sustainable.
Our Textiles & Fabrics ambassadors
The sector of Textiles & Fabrics is represented by Anne Marie Commandeur of Stijlinstituut Amsterdam and Liesbeth in ‘t Hout.
Commandeur is specialised in textile innovation for both interior and apparel. She heads a team of multidisciplinary designers working on creation and communication in the area of material innovation, forecasting, colour trends and strategic design concepts. Her work includes projects for Heimtextil, Swarovski, INVISTA and Textile View Magazine among others. She lectures on trend forecasting and design application at Design Academy Eindhoven and is appointed as guest lecturer and external examiner at various international design schools and universities.
After working as an art buyer for Dutch PTT, In ‘t Hout started her own firm in 1984 as a consultant for work apparel. She worked with many Dutch companies like NS, ANWB Wegenwacht, Muziektheater, Schiphol Airport, amongst others. Along with Lidewij Edelkoort, she became dean and board-member of Design Academy Eindhoven. After DAE she was dean of the Amsterdam Fashion Institute and later co-director ad-interim at Sandberg Institute. She founded Fashion Council NL and worked for it as director/liaison officer. Currently, she is doing projects as an independent consultant for fashion and design.
Embossed printed canvas
These embossed print designs consist of layers of 100% cotton fabric, with in between foam rubber to create an embossed effect. The layers of textile are glued together using a heat press, and the foam rubber is cut to size with a laser cutter.
Experimental textile design
MUUNA is an experimental ‘materials’ studio that aims to push the boundaries of textile design beyond the traditional. The studio also produces seasonal collections of directional swatch designs for industry. MUUNA presents visionary textile concepts with a specialised focus on woven and embroidery techniques.
Tchouc textiles collection is the result of La Gadoue’s research on latex coating on natural canvas. This hand-made composite material is a vegetal alternative to leather, waterproof and strong enough to face daily adventures of modern life. The idea is to produce a functional textile with versatile implementations, from interior to accessories or fashion.
Nettle & cypress fabric
Company Grado Zero Espace developed blended fabrics containing stinging nettle and cypress fibre. Thanks to a special procedure, the cypress is turned into yarn containing 38% of cypress fibre. The fabrics made with nettle fibres are a useful alternative to the use of other natural fibres.
Corium bonded leather
Corium bonded leather is a natural material, made from scraps of leather, and has a similar look and feel. The material consists of leather scraps, natural latex, grease and natural tanning products. It can be used in similar ways as leather, for instance for belts, bags, footwear, book covers, or packaging.
RETROSPECT MATERIAL XPERIENCE 2018
Several large exhibition pieces – often never shown to the public before – were exhibited during the trade fair, showing the visitor a glimpse of the future. What was shown?
Print in Motion
These prints, developed by Anouk van de Sande, have an extra dimension. While they look futuristic and digital, they are in fact analogue, consisting of various layers of stretching and transparent fabrics. The prints create an optical illusion by following the movements of the body. The effects are almost theatrical and can make you dizzy.
Designer and researcher Kristi Kuusk designs sustainable smart textiles. These textiles have integrated functions that respond to, for instance, touch. By integrating sensors, the articles of clothing can give the wearer a massage or light up.
MycoTEX is fabric made from mycelium, or the roots of mushrooms. This material is incredibly versatile, but was only used for solid materials, until now. Textile designer Aniela Hoitink created a flexible version that made steps such as weaving and sewing obsolete.
Material Xperience is known for its high-profile speaker programme, which includes renowned (inter)national architects, scientists, designers and other experts.
Wednesday afternoon 14 March the speaker programme “The Future of Fashion & Workwear“ took place in the Material Xperience theatre. Speakers were Marina Toeters (by-wire.net), Ellen Mensink (Loopalive), and Jef Montes, amongst others.
visit the programme page for more information
Materials from the independent MaterialDistrict collection
During this three-day event, MaterialDistrict showed the newest materials from its independent collection, which were scouted during the year before the exhibition. A small selection of materials:
Piñatex is a natural textile made from pineapple leaf fibre. The leaves are a by-product of the pineapple harvest, so no extra land, water, fertiliser or pesticides are required to produce the raw material. The pineapple leaves are gathered, decorticated to remove the fibre and processed into a nonwoven textile that is an alternative to leather.
Wood textile (WOO371)
This wood textile consists of a combination of wood veneer and textile. Thanks to the geometric surface finishing of the wood, it becomes flexible, more or less so depending on the size of the shapes.